At 13,804 feet, Gannett Peak stands as Wyoming's highest point, outstripping the more famous Grand Teton by 34 feet. Nestled in the remote Wind River Range, approximately 70 miles southeast of Grand Teton, Gannett Peak is notable for its rugged terrain, extensive glaciers, and significant prominence and isolation.

Gannett Peak was named in 1906 in honor of Henry Gannett, a prominent geographer and one of the founders of the National Geographic Society. Known as the "Father of the Quadrangle," Gannett was instrumental in developing topographic mapping in the United States. The first recorded ascent was made in 1922 by Arthur Tate and Floyd Stahlnaker.

The peak is the highest point in two counties (Fremont and Sublette), two National Forests (Bridger-Teton and Shoshone), and two Wilderness Areas (Bridger and Fitzpatrick). It is also the most isolated peak in Wyoming and the ninth-most isolated in the contiguous United States, with a 290-mile distance from the nearest higher peak. Gannett Peak has a clean prominence of 7,076 feet, making it the most prominent peak in Wyoming and the 15th-most prominent in the contiguous USA.

From a mountaineering perspective, Gannett Peak presents a formidable challenge. It is considered one of the most difficult state highpoints, rivaled only by Denali, Mount Rainier, and Granite Peak. The mountain's rugged terrain, high elevation, and technical requirements demand high skill and preparation from climbers.

Access Point

Gannett Peak offers two common approaches, one from the East and one from the West.

Starting at Dubois, WY (Eastern Approach)

Navigate to CCGG+7F Dubois, Wyoming.

1. Drive south on Highway 26/287 for approximately 4 miles.
2. Turn right onto Whiskey Basin/Trail Lake Road, then immediately left onto Forest Road 411.
3. Pull into the Trail Lake Ranch parking area, the starting point for the Glacier Trail, Bomber Basin, and Whiskey Mountain.

Starting at Pinedale, WY (Western Approach)

Navigate to 264X+MC Cora, Wyoming.

1. Drive from the east end of Pinedale and turn left onto Fremont Lake Road.
2. Take the right fork onto Forest Road 134 (Skyline Drive) after 3 miles.
3. Pull into the Trails End Campground and Elkhart Park parking area, the starting point for the Pole Creek Trail.

Recommended Route

Gannett Peak can be approached from the east via the Glacier Trail or the west via the Pole Creek Trail to Titcomb Basin. Each route has its unique challenges and scenic rewards.

From the East (Glacier Trail)

Distance: 50 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: Approximately 10,750 feet

Follow the Glacier Trail.

Starting from Dubois, this route is the longest standard approach to any state highpoint in the contiguous United States. While the mileage and elevation gain are significant, the approach offers a closer high camp, making the summit day less demanding. Key waypoints include Arrow Pass, Double Lake, and the Dinwoody Glacier, with high camps near the glacier.

• Trailhead: Start at Trail Lake Ranch.
• Arrow Pass (10,895 ft): Ascend through switchbacks, reaching a high point with expansive views.
• Burro Flat and Phillips Lake: The trail descends into open plateaus, passing picturesque lakes.
• Double Lake and Star Lake: Ideal camping spots for the first night, with scenic views and access to water.
• Dinwoody Glacier Base: Establish high camp at around 10,200 to 10,800 feet.
• Gooseneck Glacier: Navigate crevasses and ascend to the summit ridge.
• Summit: The final push to the peak involves crossing a bergschrund and ascending steep snow slopes.

From the West (Pole Creek Trail to Titcomb Basin)

Distance: 40 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: Approximately 9,050 feet

Follow the Pole Creek Trail to Titcomb Basin. After the basin, the AllTrails routes disappear, so you'll have to ascend over Bonney Pass into the Dinwoody Basin on sparsely marked trails.

The Western approach is popular due to its slightly shorter distance and less overall elevation gain. However, crossing Bonney Pass requires additional elevation loss and gain on summit day, adding to the route's difficulty. This route offers spectacular scenery, including views of the Titcomb Basin.

• Trailhead: Start at Elkhart Park.
• Photographers Point: A popular spot for views of the Wind River Range.
• Seneca Lake and Island Lake: Pass these beautiful alpine lakes en route to Titcomb Basin.
• Titcomb Basin: Set up base camp in this stunning location surrounded by towering peaks.
• Bonney Pass (12,800 ft): Climb over the pass, descending into Dinwoody Basin.
• Dinwoody Glacier: The route merges with the eastern approach, continuing up the glacier to the summit.

Regulations

No special permits are required to climb Gannett Peak, but standard wilderness rules apply. Climbers should sign in at trailhead registers and practice Leave No Trace principles.

Lodging & Camping

Backcountry camping is permitted within the Bridger and Fitzpatrick Wilderness Areas. Popular camping areas include Double Lake, Star Lake, and high camps near the Dinwoody Glacier. Climbers should be self-sufficient and prepared for varying weather conditions.

FAQs

What is the best time to climb Gannett Peak?

The best time to climb is from June to September, with July and August offering the most stable weather conditions and minimized crevasse risks.

How difficult is the climb?

Gannett Peak is a challenging climb requiring strong mountaineering skills, including glacier travel and crevasse navigation. The long approaches and technical summit day make it one of the more demanding state highpoints.

How long does it typically take to summit Gannett Peak?

The climb generally takes 3-5 days, depending on the approach and the climbers' experience level. The eastern Glacier Trail approach is longer but offers a shorter summit day, while the western Pole Creek Trail approach requires crossing Bonney Pass, adding extra elevation gain.

What are the main hazards to be aware of when climbing Gannett Peak?

The primary hazards include crevasses on the glaciers, especially on the Gooseneck and Dinwoody Glaciers, severe weather, and the physical demands of a long, high-altitude climb. Proper preparation and gear are essential to mitigate these risks.

What should I bring?

Essential gear includes mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, helmets, warm clothing, camping gear, and a reliable navigation system. A comprehensive first aid kit and sufficient food and water are also crucial.

Is it necessary to have previous mountaineering experience?

Yes, previous mountaineering experience is highly recommended. Climbers should be proficient in glacier travel, crevasse rescue techniques, and navigating in challenging weather conditions. The climb involves technical sections that can be dangerous for inexperienced climbers.

Can I climb Gannett Peak without a guide?

While it is possible to climb Gannett Peak without a guide, it is recommended only for experienced climbers with strong mountaineering skills. The technical nature of the climb and the remoteness of the area make a guided climb a safer option for those unfamiliar with the terrain.

How do I prepare for the climb?

Preparation should include cardiovascular and strength training and practice hikes with a loaded backpack. Climbers should be familiar with glacier travel techniques and self-rescue.

What wildlife might I encounter during the climb?

The Wind River Range is home to a variety of wildlife, including black bears, elk, moose, marmots, and pika. While encounters are usually non-threatening, proper food storage and awareness are crucial to minimize risks, especially with bears.

What is the weather like on Gannett Peak?

Weather on Gannett Peak can be highly variable and unpredictable. Even in summer, conditions can change rapidly, with potential for snow, high winds, and freezing temperatures. It's essential to check weather forecasts and be prepared for all conditions.