Granite Peak, towering at 12,799 feet, is the highest point in Montana and a premier mountaineering destination in the United States. Located in the Beartooth Range within the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, this peak offers a challenging and exhilarating climb for experienced hikers and mountaineers. Known for its rugged terrain, technical routes, and stunning alpine scenery, Granite Peak is a sought-after summit for those looking to conquer one of the most challenging state high points.

Granite Peak holds a unique place in American mountaineering history. The first successful ascent was made on August 29, 1923, by Elers Koch and his party, following several unsuccessful attempts by other groups. The peak was one of the last state highpoints to be climbed, primarily due to its technical difficulty and remote location. Over the years, Granite Peak has earned a reputation as a challenging climb, often considered the most difficult of the state highpoints outside Alaska. Its rugged terrain, including steep rock faces and unstable weather, demands technical skill and physical endurance.

The mountain is part of the ancient Beartooth Range, characterized by Precambrian rock formations, some of the oldest exposed rocks on Earth. This geologic significance, combined with the region's rich biodiversity, including species like the mountain goat, makes Granite Peak a fascinating study for geologists and naturalists. The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, encompassing Granite Peak, is a protected area, ensuring the preservation of its unique natural environment and cultural history.

Access Point

Navigate to 332R+72 Cooke City, Montana.

The Sky Top Lakes Approach provides a beautiful and challenging route to Granite Peak. From Cooke City, drive east on US Highway 212 (Beartooth Highway) and turn left onto Lulu Pass Road. After approximately two miles, a large gravel parking area serves as the new standard trailhead. For those a slightly shorter hike, continue past this area to a smaller, older parking area near an old mining cabin. That's the start of this trail and where the Google Maps marker above will take you.

Recommended Route

Follow the Lady of the Lake Trail to the Sky Top Lakes.

Please note that AllTrails does not perfectly represent this route. Direct to the Google Maps location above and follow the trail markers for the first mile or so. Once you get to the Lady of the Lake, you can follow the AllTrails route below.

The Southwest Ramp Route is gaining popularity as an alternative to the traditional Froze-to-Death Plateau/East Ridge route. This route offers an aesthetically pleasing approach and a more varied climbing experience. The journey begins by hiking along the trail from the Lady of the Lake Trailhead, passing through the scenic Aero Lakes region. This approach covers roughly 13-14 miles one way, including significant off-trail navigation.

The route involves hiking past Lady of the Lake, through the Aero Lakes area, and towards Sky Top Lakes. The climb begins from the southwest face of Granite Peak, marked by a large slab of rock. From here, climbers have two main options: Couloir 1 (often called the Southwest Ramp) and Couloir 2. Couloir 1 is a relatively straightforward path with fewer hazards. The ascent involves navigating steep snowfields and loose rock, requiring proficiency in using crampons and an ice axe. The final section consists of a scramble over more solid rock, leading to the summit ridge.

Note: The Southwest Ramp Route is preferred over the Froze-to-Death Plateau/East Ridge route because it does not require technical rock climbing gear like ropes and harnesses. The Froze-to-Death route involves more technical climbing on rock and generally requires more advanced equipment and skills.

Regulations

Climbing Granite Peak does not require a permit; however, climbers should adhere to Leave No Trace principles to preserve the delicate alpine environment. The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness is a protected area, and climbers should be well-prepared for the remote and rugged conditions. Weather can be highly unpredictable, with the potential for sudden storms, so climbers must be equipped with appropriate gear and prepared for all situations.

Granite Peak and the surrounding areas within the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness are home to various wildlife, including grizzly bears. Hikers and climbers should be aware of their presence, especially during the summer and fall months when bears are more active. Carry bear spray and know how to use it effectively. Additionally, it is crucial to practice proper food storage and disposal to avoid attracting bears to campsites.

Lodging & Camping

Camping options along the Aero Lakes Approach are primarily backcountry sites near Lady of the Lake, Aero Lakes, and Sky Top Lakes. These sites offer picturesque views and are great for acclimatization before the summit attempt. Due to the area's remote nature, you must carry all camping gear and supplies. Campers should prepare for variable weather and have sufficient supplies for their stay.

Several Forest Service campgrounds sit near the trailheads. East Rosebud has three campgrounds with 34 sites, water, and a $9/night fee. Nearby towns like Cooke City and Red Lodge provide additional accommodations and services for climbers preparing for or returning from their expedition.

FAQs

How difficult is the climb to Granite Peak via the Southwest Ramp?

The Southwest Ramp Route is challenging, involving steep snowfields and loose rock. Climbers should have experience with climbing in classes 3 and 4 and be comfortable using technical equipment such as crampons and ice axes.

Do I need a permit to climb Granite Peak?

No, a permit is not required to climb Granite Peak. However, climbers must follow Leave No Trace principles and respect wilderness regulations.

What is the best time to climb Granite Peak?

The best time to climb is between July and September when weather conditions are more stable. Snow and ice are still present, so climbers should prepare for varying conditions.

Can I camp along the Aero Lakes Approach?

Yes, several backcountry camping sites are available, including near Lady of the Lake and Aero Lakes. Campers must be self-sufficient and prepared for the remote wilderness environment.

Why choose the Southwest Ramp Route over the Froze-to-Death Plateau/East Ridge Route?

The Southwest Ramp Route is often preferred because it avoids requiring technical rock climbing gear such as ropes and harnesses. It offers a more straightforward climb with less exposure to difficult rock climbing sections, making it more accessible to climbers with limited technical climbing experience. Additionally, the approach via Aero Lakes is considered more scenic and enjoyable.

Are grizzly bears present in the Granite Peak area, and should I carry bear spray?

Grizzly bears are active in the Granite Peak area and throughout the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness. Carry bear spray and know how to use it as a precaution against potential encounters. Proper food storage and waste disposal are essential to minimize the risk of attracting bears to campsites.