Denali, formerly known as Mount McKinley, is the highest peak in North America and a coveted destination for high-altitude climbers. Rising majestically near the Arctic Circle and the Gulf of Alaska, Denali's notorious weather and rugged terrain make it an ideal training ground for those aspiring to tackle the world's highest peaks, including the 8,000-meter giants of the Himalayas. It's also a must-visit for peak baggers, being the highpoint of the Denali Borough, the state of Alaska, the United States, the Alaska Range, and North America.

Denali's first recorded ascent was in 1913, marking the beginning of its legacy as a premier mountaineering challenge. The mountain's extreme environment, with its significant relief and a rise of 17,000 feet from its surrounding plain, makes it a severe test of endurance, teamwork, and logistics. The climb's difficulty is further heightened by the mountain's latitude, which results in lower barometric pressure and a sensation of higher altitude than the actual elevation.

Denali holds a rich cultural and historical significance. It has been a sacred place for the native Koyukon Athabascan people, who named it "Denali," meaning "The Great One." This name reflects the mountain's towering presence and spiritual importance in their culture. The name "Mount McKinley" was given in 1896 by a prospector to honor then-presidential candidate William McKinley, though this name was often contested. In 2015, the mountain's official name was changed back to Denali to recognize the native name. The first successful ascent was made in 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum. Harper, an Alaskan native, was the first to set foot on the summit. The mountain has since become a symbol of adventure and a testing ground for climbers worldwide, drawing thousands each year who seek to conquer its formidable heights.

Access Point

Given Denali’s remote location and extreme climate, getting to the mountain is a three-part journey.

Part I: Flying to Anchorage

The journey to Denali begins at Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC), located approximately four miles south of Anchorage. While not a significant passenger hub, it ranks as the world's fifth-largest cargo airport. Most climbers fly into Anchorage before making their way to the mountain.

Part II: Driving to Talkeetna

A two-hour drive from Anchorage brings climbers to the small town of Talkeetna, the primary staging area for expeditions to Denali and the Alaska Range. As Talkeetna's options are limited, stocking up on supplies in Anchorage is advisable.

Navigate to 8VCQ+X8 Talkeetna, Alaska.

Part III: Flying to the Kahiltna Glacier

Expeditions fly from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp via bush plane. Some services offer flights from Anchorage to Talkeetna for an additional fee.

Recommended Route

Take the West Buttress Route.

The West Buttress is the most popular route on Denali, attempted by over 90% of climbers. Despite being the "easiest" route technically, it remains a formidable challenge. The route's nicknames, such as "the Denali Iditarod" or "the Scenic Loop," reflect its popularity and accessibility. Climbers face numerous hazards, including crevasses, avalanches, and extreme weather, with critical sections like the lower glacier, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge requiring careful navigation.

Camps are typically established at various elevations: 7,200 ft (Base Camp), 7,800 ft, 9,500 ft, 11,000 ft, 14,200 ft, and 17,200 ft. The total horizontal distance is approximately 13 miles, with about 13,500 feet of vertical gain. Expeditions generally take around 17 days, but climbers should be prepared with supplies for up to three weeks.

Itinerary

Summitting Denali can take many weeks, but here is a sample itinerary:

• Day 1: Land at Base Camp
• Day 2: Rest and organize gear
• Day 3: Move to 7,800 ft camp
• Day 4: Move to 9,500 ft camp
• Day 5: Move to 11,000 ft camp
• Day 6: Rest day
• Day 7: Ferry loads to 14,200 ft camp, return to 11,000 ft camp
• Day 8: Move to 14,200 ft camp
• Day 9: Rest day
• Day 10: Ferry loads to 17,200 ft camp, return to 14,200 ft
• Day 11: Rest day
• Day 12: Move to 17,200 ft camp
• Day 13: Summit day
• Day 14: Descend to 11,000 ft camp
• Day 15: Descend to base camp, fly out

This itinerary may vary due to weather conditions and the team's acclimatization rate.

Regulations

Denali requires climbing permits and strict waste management requirements to ensure the integrity of the mountain’s ecosystem.

Permits

Climbers must register with the Talkeetna Ranger Station at least 60 days before climbing and pay a permit fee ($375 for adults and $275 for those 24 and younger). The Denali National Park entrance fee is an additional $15 per person.

Clean Mountain Canisters (CMCs)

All climbers must use CMCs to manage human waste. These portable toilets are crucial for maintaining a pristine environment. The National Park Service provides CMCs, which must be used throughout the climb, especially at High Camp.

Waste Management

All trash and human waste must be carried off the mountain. The National Park Service strictly enforces these regulations, with fines and other penalties for violators.

Gear

Climbing Denali requires specialized gear to ensure safety and comfort in extreme conditions. Essential equipment includes:

• Clothing: Layered clothing for temperature regulation, including base layers, insulating layers, and outer shell layers. A down suit or parka is recommended for the upper mountain.
• Footwear: Mountaineering boots suitable for extreme cold, with compatible crampons.
• Sleeping System: A four-season tent, a high-quality sleeping bag rated to at least -40°F, and a sleeping pad for insulation from the snow.
• Technical Gear: Ice axe, crampons, harnesses, ropes, and snow anchors for glacier travel and crevasse rescue.
• Cooking and Hydration: A reliable stove for melting snow, fuel, and high-calorie food that is easy to prepare in cold conditions.
• Safety and Navigation: GPS, map, compass, altimeter, and communication devices like a satellite phone or radio.
• Other essentials like sun protection (sunglasses, sunscreen), a personal first aid kit, and personal hygiene items.

Guide Services

Hiring a professional guide service is highly recommended for climbing Denali. Guides provide logistical support, group gear, food preparation, and expert decision-making. Clients are responsible for carrying their gear.

Alaska Mountaineering School

Talkeetna, AK
+1 907-733-1016
www.climbalaska.org

Alpine Ascents International

Seattle, WA
+1 206-378-1927
www.alpineascents.com

American Alpine Institute

Bellingham, WA
+1 360-671-1505
www.mtnguide.com

International Mountain Guides

Ashford, WA
+1 360-569-2609
www.mountainguides.com

Mountain Trip International, LLC

Ophir, Colorado
+1 970-369-1153
www.mountaintrip.com

N.O.L.S.

Palmer, AK
+1 907-745-4047
www.nols.edu

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.

Ashford, WA
+1 360-569-2227
www.rmiguides.com

Lodging & Camping

In Talkeetna, climbers can find accommodations ranging from basic hostels to more comfortable lodges. Once on the mountain, climbers rely on tents at established campsites. It is crucial to be prepared for harsh weather conditions and ensure proper gear for a safe and comfortable stay.

FAQs

What is the best time of year to climb Denali?

Denali's climbing season typically runs from late April to early July. This period offers the most stable weather and optimal conditions for summiting.

Do I need prior climbing experience to attempt Denali?

Denali is a challenging climb requiring previous experience with high-altitude mountaineering, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue. You should undertake this climb only if you have prior experience with similar technical climbs.

How do I prepare for the extreme cold on Denali?

Preparation includes bringing appropriate clothing layers, a high-quality sleeping bag, and a four-season tent. Training for cold weather and understanding frostbite prevention are also crucial.

Can I climb Denali without a guide?

While it is possible to climb Denali independently, it is highly recommended to use a guide service unless you have extensive experience and knowledge of the mountain and its challenges. Guides provide valuable expertise, safety, and logistical support.

What are the main challenges of climbing Denali?

The primary challenges include extreme cold, unpredictable weather, high altitude, and the physical demands of carrying heavy loads over long distances. The risk of avalanches and crevasse falls also adds to the difficulty.

How do I acclimatize to the altitude on Denali?

Acclimatization involves a gradual ascent, allowing your body to adjust to higher altitudes. This typically includes climbing high and sleeping low, spending extra days at specific elevations, and staying hydrated.

Is it possible to ski down Denali?

Yes, skiing down Denali is possible and has been done by skilled climbers. However, advanced skiing abilities are required, as the terrain can be steep and conditions unpredictable.

What should I do in case of an emergency on Denali?

In an emergency, having a satellite phone or radio is crucial for contacting rescue services. Climbers should also be familiar with self-rescue techniques and have a first aid kit. The National Park Service provides emergency services, but response times can vary depending on weather and location.

How do I manage waste on the mountain?

All waste, including human waste, must be carried off the mountain using Clean Mountain Canisters (CMCs). Climbers must also consolidate pee holes away from camping areas and follow Leave No Trace principles.

Can I expect cell phone service on Denali?

Cell phone service is generally unreliable on Denali. Climbers should not depend on it for communication and should instead carry satellite phones or radios for emergencies.